So you’ve got a trip coming up and a scaly friend at home who can’t exactly pack a suitcase and come along. Leaving your reptile with a pet sitter — whether it’s a weekend getaway or a proper vacation — takes a bit more prep than leaving out a bowl of kibble. Reptiles are particular about their environments (honestly, who isn’t?), and even small changes can stress them out. From my time working with bearded dragons, snakes, geckos, and turtles at Bay Area Bird & Exotics Hospital, and now as a professional reptile pet sitter in San Francisco, here’s how I’d tell you to get ready.

1. Write Down Your Reptile’s Care Sheet

I know, I know — your sitter might already be reptile-savvy. But here’s the thing: every reptile has its own personality and quirks. A care sheet tailored to your pet makes all the difference. Include:

Feeding schedule — what they eat, how much, and when. Don’t forget to note if insects need to be dusted with calcium or vitamin D3 supplements (this one gets missed a lot)
Temperature requirements — basking spot temp, cool side temp, and nighttime temp. Point out exactly which thermometers to check and where they’re placed
Humidity levels — this is especially critical for ball pythons (60-70%), crested geckos (60-80%), and other tropical species. Low humidity can lead to stuck sheds and respiratory issues fast
UVB schedule — how many hours per day, when lights go on and off, and whether you’ve got timers set up already
Water — how often to change it, your misting schedule for arboreal species, and whether your reptile likes to soak

For detailed species-specific temperature and humidity ranges, check out my Reptile & Amphibian Care Guide.

2. Stock Up on Supplies

Nothing worse than a sitter running out of crickets at 9 PM on a Sunday. Leave more than enough of everything:

Food — pre-portioned if possible (your sitter will thank you). For insect feeders, leave extra crickets, dubia roaches, or mealworms along with gut-load food
Supplements — calcium powder, vitamin D3, multivitamin, with clear instructions on dusting frequency. I’d suggest labeling containers if you use different supplements on different days
Substrate — keep extra on hand for spot cleaning
Fresh greens — pre-washed and ready in the fridge for herbivores like bearded dragons and tortoises. Bonus points for labeling what’s safe and what’s a treat
Cleaning supplies — paper towels, reptile-safe disinfectant, waste bags

3. Test All Equipment Before You Leave

This is the one I really want to stress. From what I’ve seen providing reptile care, equipment failures are the most common emergency that comes up while owners are away. Before you head out:

Verify all heat lamps, under-tank heaters, and ceramic heat emitters are working properly
Check that UVB bulbs are within their effective lifespan (most need replacing every 6-12 months — and no, they don’t just “burn out,” they lose UV output while still looking fine)
Test any timers controlling light cycles
Confirm thermometers and hygrometers are reading accurately
Make sure the thermostat is set correctly and functioning
Check water filters for aquatic turtles

A burned-out heat lamp overnight can drop temperatures dangerously fast, and your sitter may not catch it right away. Spend ten minutes testing everything — it’s worth it.

4. Schedule a Meet and Greet

A good reptile sitter will want to meet your pet before the first care visit. This isn’t just a formality — it’s how your sitter learns your setup and how your reptile reacts to a new person. During the meet and greet:

Walk through the enclosure setup together
Show your sitter where all supplies are stored
Demonstrate feeding (especially if live insects are involved — the first time wrangling crickets can be… an experience)
Point out your reptile’s normal behaviors versus stress signs
Share your vet’s contact information and talk through what would constitute an emergency

I require a meet and greet for all first-time boarding clients — it’s essential for both your pet’s comfort and your peace of mind. And honestly, it makes me feel better too.

5. Know the Warning Signs

Make sure your sitter knows what to watch for. The most common thing I see is owners assuming their sitter will just “know” when something’s off — but reptiles are subtle, and stress signs look different across species:

Bearded dragons: Black beard stress marks, lethargy, refusal to eat, sunken eyes
Snakes: Wheezing or bubbling (respiratory infection), regurgitation, prolonged food refusal
Geckos: Dropped tail, stuck shed on toes, weight loss
Turtles/tortoises: Soft shell, swollen eyes, runny nose

A quick cheat sheet taped near the enclosure can be a lifesaver.

6. Leave Emergency Contacts

Last but definitely not least — make sure your sitter has:

Your phone number and the best way to reach you (text? call? carrier pigeon?)
Your reptile’s veterinarian — and please make sure it’s a vet who actually specializes in exotics. A dog-and-cat vet isn’t going to know what to do with a sick ball python. Check my Bay Area exotic vet directory if you need a recommendation
A backup emergency contact in case you’re unreachable

Need a professional reptile pet sitter in San Francisco? I provide in-home reptile care and reptile boarding with veterinary-level attention to your pet’s environment, diet, and health.

Prepare Your Reptile for Pet Sitting